- install hideWhen from http://mptw.tiddlyspot.com/#HideWhenPlugin
- in your ViewTemplate do something like this:
...
...
<div macro="showWhen readOnly">
<!- - cut-down toolbar for web users - ->
<div macro='toolbar closeTiddler permalink'></div>
</div>
<div macro="hideWhen readOnly">
<!- - regular toolbar for me - ->
<div macro='toolbar closeTiddler closeOthers +editTiddler deleteTiddler permalink references jump'></div>
</div>
...